Simplicity 1664 — Bustier-Style Peplum Top

4 Jul

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I’m back with another completed item and a sewing pattern review for you!

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You may remember seeing this top for the first time during Me Made May (on days 17 and 25). It is Simplicity 1664, a Threads magazine-designed sportswear set pattern, which I must confess I bought solely for the shirt pattern.  But at $1.99 who can resist?

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I was pleasantly surprised by this pattern as it didn’t have excessive ease and the instructions were excellent.

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Did I mention I used a pink satin lining? :)

Apparently they were written by someone from Threads so they included details like edgestitching the facing to the lining, a feature I have never seen in a commercial pattern. As written, the pattern yields a very professionally finished, well-fitted top.

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The only change I made was to ease some twill tape along the top neckline seamline to prevent some gape-age that was occurring.  This method was a trick that I learned from Gretchen Hirsch’s Bombshell dress class on Craftsy.  I cut the tape 1″ shorter than the neckline on each side of center and eased it onto the seam allowance and then sewed it just outside the seam line to make the top of the shirt hug my body better.  This trick worked like a charm!

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I didn’t do a full bust adjustment on this pattern, I just graded from a 14 at the should and neck to a 16 at the full bust, back to a 14 at the waist.

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Top: Me Made!
Skirt: “Vintage” Studio M white linen sailor style (med school era)
Shoes: Michael Kors wedges
Sunglasses: Ray Bans
Jewelry: Kenneth Cole bangles, Premier necklace

On my next version (which may show up as a dress), I will cut a 16 through the shoulder and bust as the underarm area is a little snug and the bust fits great, and I will taper the waist in to a 12 as there is a bit too much ease there. I will also add 1/2″ in length at the front center tapering to 0 at the side to account for the full bust.

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On this version, I didn’t have the separating zipper that was called for, so I used a regular zipper and left a 1″ seam sewn at the bottom and did a lapped zipper application above that. Since the zipper is purple and my top is navy, I have plans to eventually replace the zipper with the appropriate type and color. I also botched the hook and eye at the top of the zip so I plan to correct that eventually, too.

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All in all, this is an awesome top pattern that I can’t recommend highly enough.  The directions are excellent and the results are very professional.

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And if you haven’t noticed yet, this top features a peplum — are you starting to wonder if that’s all I know how to make (case in point)?

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I hope this review has been helpful and inspiring, and for my USA readers, I included a little red, white, and blue for you in honor of our country’s birthday — Happy Independence Day!

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16 Responses to “Simplicity 1664 — Bustier-Style Peplum Top”

  1. Lynn July 4, 2013 at 8:55 am #

    Beautiful top! Wonderful fit!

    • Susie Homemaker, MD July 4, 2013 at 12:53 pm #

      Thanks, Lynn! Looks like you have been sewing and knitting up a storm lately!!

  2. cjgal July 4, 2013 at 9:57 am #

    Very lovely! This looks so professional inside and out. I’m loving all these fantastic peplums that keep popping up, yours is great!

    • Susie Homemaker, MD July 4, 2013 at 12:53 pm #

      Thank you! You should definitely pick up this pattern next time they have a sale at Joann or Hancock.

  3. itsmhuang July 4, 2013 at 10:51 am #

    So cute! The peplum goes with the sweetheart neckline very well.

  4. Judith July 5, 2013 at 1:56 am #

    This looks great – the plain colour really showcases the simple but beautiful lines of this top!

  5. sewtigersew July 5, 2013 at 10:04 am #

    This is beautiful work! You’re inspiring me to consider taking a workshop weekend with the stars like you do on occasion–you seem to be learning fine technique at lightning speed!

    • Susie Homemaker, MD July 5, 2013 at 6:25 pm #

      You definitely should! It is nice to have uninterrupted sewing time :)

      How are the wedding plans coming?

  6. KaoruMarie July 5, 2013 at 6:18 pm #

    Oh man, I just made the top from Simplicity 1650, which is a dress peplum pattern, and I gotta say your peplum is WAY better! Your peplum piece is much more subtle and I really like how it looks. Your blouse/top looks so professional and beautiful.

    • Susie Homemaker, MD July 5, 2013 at 6:29 pm #

      Thank you :)
      I just checked out your top and I think it looks great! Peplums are really easy to draft so if you aren’t happy with the one in the pattern, you could always substitute it with a self-drafted 1/2 circle peplum for a less-full option.

      I also really like the knit birdies top and Robson coat you’ve made recently. That coat is awesome!

  7. noriecreates July 9, 2013 at 9:48 pm #

    This is stunning! Such beautiful work inside and out!

  8. Romy July 16, 2013 at 12:18 am #

    What a gorgeous blouse, it suits you so well! Thanks for the inside-out photos also, I love to see all the details.

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  1. 2013 in Review | Susie Homemaker, MD - January 1, 2014

    […] Bustier Top  Simplicity 1664 […]

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